“VIETNAMESE WOMEN DRINKING TEA” PAINTING
QUAI BRANLY MUSEUM

Annam
1894

REFINED TEA BREWING SKILLS OF VIETNAMESE

“Chuyên trà”

The style of tea brewing known as “Chuyên trà” first appeared during the Later Lê Restoration period (1533 – 1789) and was perfected in the Nguyễn dynasty (1802 – 1945). Tea drinkers were very picky about selecting tea pots, tea cups, kettles, and stoves, and made an effort to improve their understanding of various types of tea. They particularly focused on the skill of brewing a delicious cup of tea. It seemed to be a practice of upright individuals and was a comfortable way to relax, bringing spiritual nourishment.

It is called: “Chuyên trà”.

『雨中隨筆』
范廷琥, 1768-1839

【茗飲】
1790s

“VŨ TRUNG TUỲ BÚT” BOOK
PHẠM ĐÌNH HỔ (1768 – 1839) – AUTHOR
“MÍNH ẨM” – DRINKING TEA

Mính Ẩm
1790s

The Chuyên trà tea set

The basic teaware used for Chuyên Trà

『日用常談』
「滃茗羅專茶」

【專茶】
1798

DICTIONARY
“NHẬT DỤNG THƯỜNG ĐÀM”
ỔNG MÍNH:
LÀ CHUYÊN TRÀ 【專茶】
FOUR MAIN PIECES OF TEAWARE: tea pot, tea cups, kettle (terracotta/bronze), tea brazier

Small tea pot
Rich/strong taste

The four most important pieces of teaware in Chuyên Trà: 

  1. Ấm chuyên trà: special teapot of chuyên trà. 
  2. Chén Tống, Chén quân: big teacup (General teacup) used as a serving pitcher, and small teacups (Soldier teacups) 
  3. Siêu: special terracotta/bronze kettle of chuyên trà
  4. Lò: tea brazier

Water is boiled in a kettle, and tea is brewed quickly in a small teapot and served in thin teacups, creating a delicious beverage with a rich, layered taste, a wonderful mouthfeel, and lingering aftertaste.

PAINTING
“NGUYỄN VĂN SIÊU IS TEACHING”

Nguyễn Văn Siêu
1853

“THE WAY OF CHUYÊN TRÀ”

“Thanh nhàn” 

Spiritual nourishment

In the past, people loved tea because of its rich taste and elegance. In the early morning and evening, they brewed tea as a way to relax, and devoted time to improving their understanding of tea and tea brewing skills. For many, tea also became a source of spiritual nourishment.

ILLUSTRATION BOOK
ANNAMITES ET EXTRÊME-OCCIDENTAUX

Tonkinoise
1894

The 16 tea utensils of a Chuyên Trà tea set

A full Chuyên Trà tea set includes sixteen tea utensils which help to brew a more delicious cup of tea, and create a sense of elegance.

Ấm chuyên

Teapot

 The special teapot used for Chuyên Trà is called an ấm chuyên trà. It was typically a thin-walled vessel made from unglazed Yixing clay, with a fixed lid, and small capacity (60ml – 160ml).
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Chén quân

Soldier cups

Chuyên Trà tea sets contain several small teacups called Chén quân, which means “soldier cups”. Chén quân are usually as thin as an eggshell and bright white to make the color of the tea easier to see. Chuyên Trà tea sets in southern Vietnam (formerly Cochinchina) typically used three teacups, while tea sets in northern Vietnam (formerly Tonkin) used four teacups.

Chén tống

General cup

There is a large teacup called a Chén Tống (General cup), which functions as a serving pitcher. First, the tea server empties the tea from the teapot into the Chén Tống. Then, they use the Chén Tống to distribute the tea into the smaller teacups.

Siêu

Kettle

Made of terracotta or bronze, this kettle is designed with a unique side handle and a thin, concave base that allows it to boil water rapidly. Capacity typically ranges from 350ml to 550ml.

Lò than 

Brazier

This small, skillfully crafted tea brazier fits into the terracotta/ bronze kettle. The fire chamber is deep enough to keep charcoal embers burning, while the thick base and airflow holes keep the brazier from becoming too hot.



Dầm

Plate

A dầm plate is used to keep the ấm chuyên trà elevated and prevent water from spilling outside the tea table during tea brewing.

Bàn

Plate

There are 2 plates called bàn, which are used for keeping the chén tống and chén quân elevated and to prevent tea from spilling outside during tea brewing. Bàn plates should have a flat base that allows teacups to sit flat.



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Khay trà

Tea tray

Known as a Khay trà in Vietnemese, the tea tray is used as a small platform for the plates that contain the General teacup and Soldier teacups. This is a venerable tradition which allows tea to be served more easily.

Ống nhổ

Bowl

This bowl is used as a receptacle for waste water and bits of tea leaf from tea plates and teacups during teatime.



Lọ trà

Tea caddy

Dried tea leaves are stored in a tea caddy, often made of ceramic material, pottery, bronze, or tin, and tightly sealed with a lid. The neck of a tea caddy is small to prevent moisture, air, light and odor from affecting the tea leaves.



Đũa

Tea sticks 

Tea leaves often expand after they have been brewed and can be difficult to remove from a small teapot. This utensil helps with that process, and can also unclog the spout of the teapot (older teapots usually had no strainers).

Ang nước

Water pot

A water pot is used to store water that will be poured into the kettle, so water is always ready beside the tea brazier. 

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Lồng than

Charcoal container

This utensil is used to as a container for charcoal, bronze chopsticks and a small fan with long handle – used to keep the embers hot. A special type of charcoal is used for Chuyên trà: it is easy to light, smokeless, odorless, and burns slowly.



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Bình hoa

Tiny vase

This tiny vase for flowers, usually smaller than the size of a fist, is often used to decorate Chuyên Trà tea sets.

Vuông Điều 

Cloth

Once teatime is over, the teaware is cleaned, dried, carefully arranged in the tea tray, and covered with a cloth that keeps the teaware clean. This cloth is called a Vuông điều cloth.

Chậu

Hand washing basin

Before drinking tea, the host and attendees would wash their hands to prepare to appreciate the aromas and flavors of tea.

OLD PHOTO

Tonkin
1880s

UNDERSTANDING PAST GENERATIONS

” bác cổ 

Broad knowlegde

“We believe that history is one of the best teachers, and that carefully studying the experiences of past centuries can bring us valuable knowledge. Ignoring history leads to arrogance, conceit, and confusion.”

KIỀU THỊ

Sài Gòn
2016